In Germany, there are specific "minimum requirements" for keeping fish in an aquarium, while in Austria, these guidelines are actually enshrined in law. Unlike fish, however, these regulations do not apply to shrimp; this means it is perfectly legal to keep them in aquariums with a front length of less than 60 cm. These tiny crawlers are more than happy in a smaller nano aquarium because they do not swim long distances and tend to stay settled on surfaces. You can easily design a nano tank in a way that makes these charming dwarf shrimp feel truly at home. You should note, however, that the internal filters included in standard 54-litre complete sets are usually not suitable for shrimp. They can get trapped inside the filter housing, where they risk being caught in the impeller. To avoid this, you should either purchase a shrimp-safe internal filter or opt for the Dennerle NanoCube Complete. With this stylish setup, every accessory was developed specifically with shrimp in mind and rigorously tested for safety.

Are nano aquariums unsuitable for beginners? Far from it!

It is often argued that small aquariums are not for beginners, but this can now be considered well and truly disproven. Technology has advanced to the point that high-quality filters, lighting systems, and even professional CO2 systems are available for nano tanks. The selection of plants is also much larger today, with a vast array of "mini" species and nano-scale decorations to choose from. If you do a little research and avoid a few basic rookie mistakes from the start, nothing stands in the way of a successful shrimp-keeping hobby. Don't let the sceptics put you off!

A vital point in shrimp keeping: The water

The aquarium hobby features many different dwarf shrimp that originate from various habitats, meaning they require different water parameters. Fortunately, you no longer have to choose your livestock based solely on your tap water. Because a nano aquarium is naturally compact, it is very easy to use RO (reverse osmosis) water and mineral salts to create the exact environment your favourite shrimp need. It really is not difficult: simply measure the mineral salt and stir it into the water. Most cooking recipes are more complicated than that!

Shrimp from soft water

The classic example of a soft-water shrimp is the popular red-and-white or black-and-white Bee Shrimp (also known as Crystal Red or Crystal Black), which is a real eye-catcher. These originate from habitats with very soft water and require the same conditions in your tank. While you can keep Bee Shrimp in harder water, the offspring often fail to survive and the adults are more prone to illness. To get it right, just measure your RO water, add the mineral salt with the provided spoon, stir briefly, and fill the aquarium. There is no need to be intimidated by this process, as it is remarkably straightforward. You can recognise mineral salt for soft-water shrimp by the "GH+" label. Dennerle’s Bee Salt GH+ is an excellent example for keeping Bee Shrimp thriving.

Shrimp from hard water

A prime example of hard-water shrimp is the colourful Neocaridina group. These are incredibly hardy and can cope with almost any water values found in typical tap water. These shrimp are perfect for beginners as they are easy to care for and breed readily. You might wonder why hardening salts exist for Neocaridina (recognisable by the "GH/KH+" label), such as Dennerle Shrimp Salt GH/KH+. Unfortunately, hardness is not the only factor. Tap water can contain unwanted substances; for instance, water companies sometimes use chlorine or silver to treat bacteria, and older houses may still have copper pipes. Silver, chlorine, and copper are all highly toxic to shrimp! If you choose not to use RO water, you should let the tap run for a while to flush out any copper deposits. Since copper dissolves more easily in warm water, it is best to fill your aquarium bucket with cold water. If in doubt, let it stand by a radiator for a day to reach room temperature. To eliminate chlorine, use a showerhead to spray the water into the bucket, as the agitation helps the gas escape. Alternatively, you can aerate the water for a few hours with an air pump.

Unfortunately, there is no simple trick for removing silver, which is a deadly poison for shrimp. To be on the safe side, you should use a water conditioner to bind heavy metals and other chemicals. Dennerle Clear Water Elixir and Aqua Elixir are designed for this purpose. With Clear Water Elixir, the water may appear slightly cloudy at first, but it soon becomes brilliantly transparent.

Temperature

Most dwarf shrimp do not originate from tropical regions and do not require very high temperatures. Typical room temperature (between 18 and 24 °C) is more than enough. A heater is only necessary if you are keeping specific warm-water species or if your home is particularly cold. Dennerle offers heating solutions sized perfectly for nano tanks, ensuring the equipment is not oversized for a small volume of water.

The filter: Internal options

Internal filters are popular for nano aquariums, but many standard models have large intake slats that tiny shrimp can get sucked through. Once inside, they can be caught by the impeller. Dennerle solved this with the Nano Corner Filter. Although it still has slats (which are necessary for water flow), the design ensures that even the smallest shrimp cannot reach the impeller. For extra peace of mind, you can clip on the Dennerle Baby Protect guard. For heavily stocked tanks that need more filtration, we recommend the Nano Filter Extension, which effectively doubles the filter volume.

External and hang-on filters

External and hang-on-back (HOB) filters, such as the Dennerle Nano Scaper's Flow, sit outside the aquarium rather than inside the water. The HOB filter clips onto the glass, while an external filter stands next to or beneath the tank. The big advantage is that they do not take up precious space inside the aquarium (and, let's be honest, internal filters can be a bit unsightly). The weak point is often the water intake pipe, which can have large slats. You can easily "shrimp-proof" these by covering them with a piece of filter sponge or a fine stainless steel mesh guard.

Filter basics: Never switch it off!

Regardless of the filter you choose, it must run 24/7. The real cleaning is done by beneficial bacteria that break down organic waste. These bacteria require oxygen, which they receive from the flowing aquarium water. If you turn the filter off overnight, they will die, and the filter will stop being effective. Clean the filter only when you notice the flow has significantly decreased. Simply rinse sponges in a bucket of aquarium water (never under the tap and never with detergent). If the media is too clogged to clean, such as with filter fleece, it is time for a replacement.

Aeration

During the day, plants provide oxygen; at night, they consume it. In heavily planted tanks, oxygen levels can drop overnight, so adding an air stone or an Oxydator can be very beneficial. This is also vital in summer, as warmer water holds less oxygen. Extra aeration provides a welcome boost for your shrimp.

Choosing the right substrate

For shrimp from harder water (Neocaridina, Amano, etc.), a neutral natural gravel or a specific Shrimp Gravel is ideal. You can get creative here with different colours and grain sizes. Soft-water shrimp (like Bees or Taiwan Bees) prefer a dark substrate that actively stabilises the water and keeps it soft. Dennerle Shrimp Soil is an excellent choice for this.

The "cycling" period

An aquarium does not have wheels, but we still talk about "cycling" it. This refers to the time needed for the tank's biological ecosystem to establish itself. Let your new tank cycle for at least two weeks before adding any livestock. Set everything else up first: the plants, water, filter, lights, and CO2 should all be running as they would normally. This allows beneficial bacteria to colonise and start converting toxic ammonia and nitrite into harmless nitrate. You can speed this up by using a bacterial starter like Dennerle Starter Rapid.

Even if the tank looks empty, it is actually teeming with microscopic life that needs to be "fed." Drop a tiny bit of shrimp food into the tank to provide the bacteria with nutrients. This ensures the bacterial population is ready for when you finally add your shrimp and snails. If you test your water during this time (using something like the Dennerle 6-in-1 strips), you will see the levels fluctuate as different bacteria multiply. Only once the nitrite levels drop to zero is it safe to add your inhabitants.

Stocking your tank

Shrimp are social creatures and should be kept in groups. A minimum of 10 animals per species is a good rule of thumb. Some species, like Amano Shrimp, are very active swimmers and need a tank at least 60 cm long. Most other dwarf shrimp are perfectly happy in a 10 or 20-litre NanoCube. For them, it is not about swimming distance, but about having plenty of surfaces to sit on and graze.

Maintenance and water changes

Generally, a weekly water change of 10 to 30% works well. If you feed heavily or use plant fertilisers, you should increase this to 50% to prevent nutrient build-up. Use this time to clean the glass; if you do it weekly with a tool like the Alginator, it never becomes a difficult task. Note that many breeders leave the back and side panes slightly "dirty," as baby shrimp love to graze on the biofilm that grows there.

To avoid sucking up tiny shrimp during a water change, either keep a very close eye on the hose or cover the end with a piece of nylon stocking. Once a month, use a gravel cleaner like the Dennerle Gravel Vacuum to remove waste from the substrate. Fill the tank back up gently (a watering can with a rose attachment is perfect for this). Mix any conditioners or salts into the watering can before pouring.

The soul of the tank: The food!

Shrimp graze on biofilms, algae, and microorganisms, so they do not starve easily. However, their diet should mimic nature: plenty of plant matter and some invertebrate proteins (like insect larvae). The Dennerle Shrimp King series uses only the best ingredients for a long and healthy life.

The ultimate "superfood": Leaves

In their natural habitats, autumn leaves fall into the streams and form a major part of the shrimp's diet. They provide fibre, tannins, and humic substances that help with moulting and bind pollutants. They also grow delicious biofilms. You can use dried leaves from native trees like oak or beech; just keep two or three in the tank at all times. If you don't have access to clean, unsprayed leaves, Catappa leaves are a great alternative. Dennerle even offers these in "Nano" sizes.

Fertilising your plants

You often hear the warning: "Don't use fertiliser with shrimp! It contains copper!" Do not worry; as long as you follow the dosage instructions, aquarium fertilisers will not harm your shrimp. If they contain copper at all, it is in such tiny concentrations that it is harmless. Dennerle plant fertilisers are specifically formulated to be shrimp-safe.

Decoration: Wood and stones

Most aquarium woods are great for shrimp. Some might float initially, so simply pre-soak them or weigh them down with a rock until they sink. Natural wood often releases tannins, turning the water slightly brown. This is actually healthy for shrimp and will fade over time with water changes. You might also see a white, fuzzy film on new wood. This is not mould but a bacterial bloom that will disappear on its own (or be eaten by the shrimp!). When choosing stones for soft-water shrimp, ensure they don't contain lime (calcium), which would harden the water. You can test this by dropping vinegar on the stone; if it fizzes, it is better suited for hard-water species like Red Fire shrimp.

Conclusion

And that is it! This was a comprehensive overview that gives you everything you need for a successful start in the world of shrimp keeping. It is not as difficult as it looks, so why not give it a go?

We hope you enjoy your new aquarium!